1993 Gulfstream Ultra 26 Foot Class C RV
We sold our RV in September, 2004 but I'll guess I'll keep this page active, if only because we miss the old girl.
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We have enjoyed countless weekend trips and occasional longer expeditions but recently purchased a 35 foot sailboat which now consumes most of our time (and all of our money), so we are putting our 26 foot Gulfstream on the market.
NEW! More Photos!
- 32,600 miles
- Dometic propane/AC refrigerator
- Central heat (Surburban SF25 propane furnace)
- Air conditioning (roof-mounted and in van)
- Propane hot water heater
- 2,800 watt Onan generator (152 hours)
- Three house batteries and one engine starting battery
- 13" Television and VCR, with option of 12V (invertor) or AC power and a second set in the rear bedroom.
- New 10-ply Michellin Tires
- Ford E-350 Super Heavy Duty Van Chassis, rear ABS
- 7.5L V8 EFI (runs great, plenty of power)
- Sleeps 5-6 comfortably (two in double bed in aft cabin, two in front overhead bunk, and one (or two small people) in the convertable dinette.
- Roof recently repainted with new layer of EPDM rubber (should be good for another ten years).
- Reese receiver hitch with 5,000 pound towing capacity
- Manuals and documents for appliances, etc.
This is not exactly to scale but should give you an idea of the basic layout. Obviously not shown underneath the front bunk are the driver and passenger seats.
This camper is well maintained, ready to go out and enjoy. All systems (heat, air, refrigerator, stove, hot water, generator, etc.) are in good working order. We recently had a complete brake job done, the gas tank cleaned, and the fuel pump replaced for peace of mind on the road. This May I recoating the roof with a fresh coat of EPDM rubber, warrantied for ten years. At this point she should be ready for years of happy camping with just minimal maintenance.
Weekend trips are a breeze when you have this kind of vehicle. You can keep the RV fully stocked with everything from clothes to toothbrushes so all that's required before heading out is to put some fresh food in the refrigerator, fill up the water tank, and off you go.
I ran a CARFAX vehicle history report, which confirms that the vehicle has no reported problems (accidents, salvage, flood, odometer tampering, lemon alerts, etc.) or really much of interest--which is probably exactly what you want to see. If you want to run a report yourself just let me know and I'll be happy to provide the VIN you'll need (cost is around $20.00 for one report but a better deal whenever you're shopping around is the $29.00 unlimited so you can look up more than one vehicle).
For More Information
Feel free to contact me and I'll be happy to tell you anything I can about the camper. At the risk of trying to sound like an expert (I'm not), I've got some general hints listed below.
Why a Class C?
If you're new to RV's, you'll want to consider carefully which type of vehicle is right for you. In our experience, a Class C has some nice advantages:
However, there are some disadvantages. Overall, I'd say that a Class C RV is perfect for weekend camping trips or longer ventures when you don't need transportation (say you're going to Disney where they provide shuttles or just don't plan to leave camp). If you plan to move to a new place every day or so, get a Class C (or Class A if you can afford one). However, once the RV is parked, you probably be disinclined to move it. If you're planning to camp in one spot for weeks at a time, you might be better off with a travel trailer so you can disconnect and still have a vehicle for seeing the sites, going to town, etc. Of course, you can tow a small vehicle behind your Class C, but this is enough trouble that for short trips we generally found it easier just to have my wife drive the Camry while I drove the camper.
- Access to everything while driving--bathroom, fridge, television, microwave, etc.
- Easier to drive than a big Class A rig or towing a travel trailer. It almost feels like you're driving a big van.
- Almost no set-up required when you arrive at the campsite. Get the vehicle level, plug in the water and electric, and you're done.
What to Look Out For
When shopping for a Class C RV (or for that matter most any used RV), check carefully for the following common problems:
I don't want to make this sound like a minefield. It's fun to own an RV, and worth the money if you use it regularly. Whether you purchase our camper or find another one better suited to your needs, best of luck.
- Leaky roofs. Most RV's have a rubber roof that can be damaged or just wear out. The smallest hole can create a lot of water damage below, so check the roof regularly both before and after purchase. With extra sealant, the new EPDM rubber on the roof, and a fresh. thick coat of silicon around all the windows, I'm confident our camper is leak-free.
- Leaks in the front bunk area. Many Class C campers have problems up in the bunk that overhangs the driver's seat. This area is exposed to high winds and stress loads. We looked at campers that seemed okay from a distance but upon lifting the mattress we found the entire bunk area was rotted out. This doesn't mean you shouldn't consider the camper, but it does mean you'll need to factor in the cost of repairs (however, to make this cost effective you will probably need to be handy enough to do those repairs yourself.)
- Brakes get a workout stopping these heavy vehicles, and brake overhauls are expensive. I feel good about our camper knowing that it has new pads, new rotors, and new calipers already installed.
- Fuel systems can and will clog if they have not been maintained. You need to keep the tank full during the winter to avoid condensation, and add a fuel stabilizer anytime the engine (or generator) will not be used within 30 days. (Our tank was cleaned in September 2003).
- Listen for leaks in the exhaust manifold (sputtering sound from the engine "doghouse" when you apply power). Both Fords and Chevys can have problems if the engine has been run hot because there isn't much ventilation around the manifolds. We recently thought we had a manifold leak but it was actually a connecting pipe next to the manifold which fortunately was less costly to fix.
- Check every applicance to make sure it is in working order.
- The age of the tires is more important than the actual wear on them. We bought six new 10-ply Michelins last year after one of the originals started to come apart on the Interstate despite having lots of tread left...so that's $1,200 worth of tires the next owner can keep in their own pocket.
- Make sure you're getting everything you need with the vehicle. Ours had no jack to change the tire, no sewer hose, no spare fuses, etc. when we got it home (the jack we bought sure came in handy when the tire came apart 400 miles from home).
Copyright © 2004 by Rodger Ling.
All rights reserved.